CHAPTER 17 - Hairstyling - Client Consultation, Wet Hairstyling Basics, Finger Waving, Pin Curls and Roller Curls

Oct 12, 2026

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Chapter 17 on hairstyling provides cosmetology guidance for delivering consistent results for clients. It starts with client consultation, emphasizing face shape, hair type, and lifestyle, plus honest communication and alternative options when a requested style is unflattering. It then covers wet hairstyling basics and the tools used, including finger waving and pin curls. The chapter explains key concepts for curl structure and mobility, pin-curl bases and techniques, and introduces roller curls with their advantages and how roller size affects the final C-shape, waves, or curls.

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Pages13

Reading Time5 min

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CHAPTER 17: HAIRSTYLING

Client Consultation (p. 420)

Wet Hairstyling Basics (p. 421)

FINGER WAVING (p. 421-422)

PIN CURLS (p. 422-425)

Parts of a Curl (p. 422-423)

Mobility of a Curl (p. 423)

Shaping for Curl Placement (p. 423)

Pin Curl Bases or Foundations (p. 424)

Pin Curl Techniques (p. 424-425)

Roller Curls (p. 426-428)

Parts of a Roller Curl

Choosing Your Roller Size

CHAPTER 17: HAIRSTYLING Cosmetologists should have a thorough understanding of hairstyling because this foundational skill allows you to create and deliver a specific outcome to the client; you can teach clients how to style their hair based on lifestyle; you can help clients keep up with current trends; and clients rely on you to be able to create the perfect style for the perfect day. Client consultation (p. 420) • the first step in the hairstyling process • remember the principles of hair design regarding face shape, hair type, and lifestyle • you may have to be a creative problem solver; be sure to be honest with your client if they are asking for a style that will be unflattering-explain why the exact style might not work and offer alternative styling options Wet Hairstyling Basics (p. 421) Wet hairstyling tools include the following: • combs • brushes • rollers (plastic) • clips (duckbill, sectioning, finger waving, double prong and single prong) • pins (bobby and hairpins) • clamps (sectioning) FINGER WAVING (p. 421-422) • Finger waving-the process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern through the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion • All the rage in the 1920s and 1930s • Waving lotion-hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger-waving procedure; traditionally made from karaya gum (harmless to hair; does not flake); is often replaced with liquid styling gels • Horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel to the head; vertical finger waves run up and down the head PIN CURLS (p.422-425) • Serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls • Can be used on all hair types • Works best when hair is layered and smoothly wound Parts of a Curl (p. 422-423) • Base-the stationary (non-moving) foundation of a curl; area closest to the scalp, the panel of hair on which a roller is placed • Stem-section of pin curl between the base and the first arc (turn) of the circle that gives the curl its direction and movement; hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller • Circle-part of the curl that forms a complete circle and ultimately the wave; the size of the circle determines the width and strength of the wave Mobility of a Curl (p. 423) The stem determines the amount of movement in a section of hair; curl mobility is classified as: no stem, half stem, and full stem • No-stem curl-placed directly on the base of a curl; produces a tight, firm, longlasting curl; allows minimum mobility • Half-stem curl-curl is placed half off the base; permits medium movement; gives good control to the hair • Full-stem curl-curl is placed completely off the base; allows for the greatest mobility; base may be square, triangular, half-moon or rectangular Shaping for Curl Placement (p. 423) • Shaping-a section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls 􀀁 will have either open-or closed-end 􀀁 always begin a curl at the open end or convex side of a shaping • Open-center curls-produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls • Closed-center curls-produce waves that get smaller toward the end; good for fine hair or if you want a fluffy curl Pin Curl Bases or Foundations (p. 424) Before you begin to make pin curls, divide the wet hair into sections or panels. Subdivide each section into the type of base required for the various curls. • Rectangular based curls-usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, upswept effect; to avoid splits, the curls must overlap • Triangular based curls-recommended for along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in finished hairstyle; allows a portion of each curl to overlap the next • Arc base (half-moon; C-shaped) curls-carved out of a shaping; give good direction; may be used at the nape or at the hairline • Square based curls-suitable for hairstyles without much volume or lift; can be

FAQs

Why is client consultation the first step in the hairstyling process?

It guides the stylist to account for face shape, hair type, and lifestyle. When a style may be unflattering, the cosmetologist should explain why and offer better alternative options.

What tools are included in wet hairstyling basics?

Wet hairstyling tools include combs, brushes, plastic rollers, clips (including duckbill and sectioning types), pins (bobby and hairpins), and clamps (for sectioning).

How does roller size affect the hairstyle result?

The relationship between hair length and roller size determines whether the outcome forms a C-shape, wave, or curl.

Oct 12, 2026

Upload by James