Preparing Garden Soil - HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET 01 - 1990 HG/H 01

Sep 27, 2026

Uploaded by Rhys

Guidance for improving garden soil by building depth, improving texture, and correcting Utah’s generally alkaline conditions. Recommends submitting samples to a soil testing lab to determine pH, salts, and nutrients, then choosing practical steps for timing, tillage, mixing, and level seedbeds. Explains how clay and sandy soils differ and how adding organic matter improves both water and nutrient holding while addressing moisture stress and slow water penetration. Covers sources of organic matter, mulching considerations, and nitrogen adjustments for carbon-rich materials, including specific fertilizer rate examples for woody mulch.

LanguageEnglish

CategoryHealthcare

FormatPDF

Pages3

Reading Time8 min

AccessFree to download

Preparing Garden Soil

Hauling Soil

Timing

Mixing

Soil Improvement

Sources of Organic Matter

Adding Nitrogen

Tough Clay Soils

Preparing Garden Soil Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET 01 1990 HG/H 01 A good garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained, near neutral, and has a lot of decayed organic matter. The ideal is seldom available, so the good gardener may have to improve what is at hand! Vegetables and other plants will grow satisfactorily with a wide range of soil types from sand to clay if certain steps are followed for overcoming their basic short-comings. Utah garden soils are almost all alkaline to some degree. On a scale with pH 7 being neutral, many vegetables will grow quite well from 6.0 to 8.4. Samples submitted to the USU Soil Testing Lab will determine the pH, salts concentration and level of nutrients. The cost is $10. Sampling information is available from the USU Extension office in your county, or from the Soil Testing Lab, 801-797-2217. HAULING SOIL In most instances you are better off to work with the soils that you have. You know what their problems are. Hauled in soil may not be any better than that in your yard. It could be a source of noxious weeds that you don’t have. If you need to cover a rock or coarse gravel bed or raise the level of a yard area,“fill”may be needed. It may or may not improve an area in which you wish to grow plants. TIMING Many gardeners are impatient and damage the soil structure by rushing the season. Soils that gardeners call “gumbo” or “adobe” are usually a loam type that one tries to prepare too early. Test this way: take a handful of soil from a 3 inch depth. Squeeze it firmly in the hand. Drop it on a side-walk. Unless the ball shatters, do not try to rototill. You’ll get hard clods and preparing a good seedbed will be difficult. As you use soil improving techniques discussed later, you can hasten the gardening time. MIXING When the soil has dried sufficiently, spade or rototill to a depth of about 6–8 inches. Garden soil doesn’t need to be “flour-fine.” Leave marble-sized particles and crusting will not be as severe as with over prepared soil. You’ll need to use a rake to pulverize clods. Level and compact the soil for a firm seedbed. The final soil surface should be as level as possible for uniform water penetration. SOIL IMPROVEMENT Clay soils have the ability to hold moisture well (often too well) and usually contain more nutrients than light soils. They dry slowly in the spring so early planting of crops is not possible. Water penetration is slow so irrigation water often runs off instead of entering the root zone. Sandy soils are easy to work but have low water holding capacities, so plants may suffer from moisture stress in hot weather. Nutrients may be lost as irrigation water moves downward through the soil. These almost opposite drawbacks of both soil types can be corrected by the same technique-adding organic matter. Fine clay particles can be physically separated by coarse organic material. Nutrient and water holding qualities of sandy soils can be increased. As the organic matter breaks down, its components continue to have soil improving characteristics. Begin by incorporating 2 to 3 inches of organic matter 6 to 8 inches deep. This application will not last forever and you should plan to add about 2 more inches each year. With heavy soils, you’ll need 2 or 3 years to see much of an improvement. Summer mulching or compost addition will be helpful. SOURCES OF ORGANIC MATTER You will need a lot to do the job so look for abundant, inexpensive materials. Leaves from deciduous trees may be gathered in the fall for composting and/or soil incorporation. Needles from conifer trees may also be used. Bark, sawdust, shavings, and other wood products are less likely to contain weed seeds than are manures. Peatmoss is an excellent material, high in organic matter and somewhat acidic. Cost is a major factor for the quantities needed. Manure may be available and is an excellent source of organic matter. If well handled, it

FAQs

How do you decide whether to rototill or not when preparing soil?

Take a handful of soil from about a 3-inch depth and squeeze it, then drop it on a sidewalk. If the ball shatters, continue with preparation; if it doesn’t, avoid rototilling to prevent hard clods and poor seedbed conditions.

What measurements should a gardener obtain from soil testing?

Submit samples to determine pH, salts concentration, and nutrient level. Utah soils are often alkaline, and results guide how to manage conditions for vegetable growth.

How does adding organic matter help both clay and sandy soils?

Clay holds moisture too well and drains slowly, while sandy soils have low water holding capacity and can lose nutrients downward. Adding organic matter improves nutrient and water retention in both cases as it breaks down over time.

Sep 27, 2026

Uploaded by Rhys