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In Western civilization, fragrance historically communicated spirituality, passion, and gendered identities. The development of modern perfume traces key changes in hygiene, the built environment, and social status, from court masking of odors to urban “therapeutic” uses, and finally to lighter socio-cultural adornment as cleanliness became less dependent on scent.",{"@graph":69,"@context":122},[70,84,105],{"@type":71,"itemListElement":72},"BreadcrumbList",[73,77,79,82],{"item":74,"name":75,"@type":76,"position":8},"https://docshare.wps.com","Home","ListItem",{"item":78,"name":9,"@type":76,"position":14},"https://docshare.wps.com/document/",{"item":80,"name":40,"@type":76,"position":81},"https://docshare.wps.com/document/research-report/",3,{"item":83,"name":65,"@type":76,"position":19},"https://docshare.wps.com/document/fragrance-and-perfume-in-west-europe-creative-encounters-working-paper-23/427001/",{"url":83,"name":65,"@type":85,"image":86,"author":91,"headline":65,"publisher":94,"fileFormat":97,"inLanguage":63,"description":67,"dateModified":98,"datePublished":99,"encodingFormat":97,"isAccessibleForFree":100,"interactionStatistic":101},"DigitalDocument",{"url":87,"@type":88,"width":89,"height":90},"https://docshare.wps.com/thumbnails/fragrance-and-perfume-in-west-europe-creative-encounters-working-paper-23/427001.png","ImageObject",300,407,{"name":92,"@type":93},"Melati","Person",{"url":74,"name":95,"@type":96},"DocShare","Organization","application/pdf","2026-10-09","2026-09-29",true,{"@type":102,"interactionType":103,"userInteractionCount":39},"InteractionCounter",{"@type":104},"ViewAction",{"@type":106,"mainEntity":107},"FAQPage",[108,114,118],{"name":109,"@type":110,"acceptedAnswer":111},"How does smell influence human memory and emotion in this working paper?","Question",{"text":112,"@type":113},"Smell is linked directly to the limbic system, the oldest part of the brain, which seats emotion and memory. 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(2009) . Fragrance and Perfume in West Europe. imagine.. CBS. Creative Encounters Working Paper No. 23  \nLink to publication in CBS Research Portal  \nGeneral rights  \nCopyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights.  \nTake down policy  \nIf you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us ([research.lib@cbs.dk](research.lib@cbs.dk)) providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim.  \nDownload date: 29. sep.. 2026  \nCreativity at Work:  \nFragrance and Perfume in West Europe  \nBy: Brian Moeran  \nNovember 2008  \nP  \nSide 1 of 14 Creative Encounters Working Papers \\#23  \nAbstract  \nFragrance and perfume connect with our most basic and primitive window on the world – our sense of smell. Animals use their sense of smell to find food, sense danger and mate. So, too, do human beings. Mothers and their babies bond through smell. Smell triggers memories buried long in our unconscious, probably because our sense of smell is linked directly to the limbic system, the oldest part of the brain, which is the seat of emotion and memory. Throughout the ages in Western civilization, fragrance has been used to communicate spirituality, passion, and both masculinity and femininity.  \nKeywords  \nClassification; Fashion; Fragrance market; Fragrance production; History; Language.  \nAuthor  \nBrian Moeran is Professor of Business Anthropology in the Department of Intercultural Communication and Management at the Copenhagen Business School, [Denmark. He may be reached by e-mail at](Denmark. He may be reached by e-mail at bdm.ikl@cbs.dk)[ ](Denmark. He may be reached by e-mail at bdm.ikl@cbs.dk)[bdm.ikl@cbs.dk](Denmark. He may be reached by e-mail at bdm.ikl@cbs.dk)  \nAbout the working paper: \" Fragrance and Perfume,\" in The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, edited by Joanne B. Eicher (Oxford: Berg, 2010). Reprinted by permission of  \nBerg Fashion Library Ltd.  \nPage 2 of 14 Creative Encou7nters Working Paper \\# 23  \nFragrance and Perfume in West Europe  \nFragrance and perfume connect with our most basic and primitive window on the world – our sense of smell. Animals use their sense of smell to find food, sense danger and mate. So, too, do human beings. Mothers and their babies bond through smell. Smell triggers memories buried long in our unconscious, probably because our sense of smell is linked directly to the limbic system, the oldest part of the brain, which is the seat of emotion and memory. Throughout the ages in Western civilization, fragrance has been used to communicate spirituality, passion, and both masculinity and femininity.  \nThe flowering of modern perfume may be traced back to the court of Louis XIV (1643-1715), whose palace at Versailles had numerous bedrooms, salons, staterooms and ballrooms, but no bathrooms. The function of the vast quantities consumed at court, both then and in later decades, was first and foremost one of masking – of covering up both human and environmental odours. Perfume added one more layer to the linen undergarments and silk coverings that made the body beautiful (and clean). Even today, in our age of soaps and detergents, deodorants and antiperspirants, plumbing and mains sewerage systems, masking remains one of the primary functions of fragrance. To smell clean is tobe clean.  \nThus the story of fragrance is a story of hygiene, the body, appearance, dress and social status. At the beginning of the nineteenth century, European cities like Paris were still unhealthy and dirty. Air circulated poorly in narrow street","cbCaihAIpWQqBYLx","https://ap.wps.com/l/cbCaihAIpWQqBYLx","pdf",636904,15,"English","# Abstract\n# Fragrance and Perfume in West Europe\n## A History of Modern Perfume","[{\"question\":\"How does smell influence human memory and emotion in this working paper?\",\"answer\":\"Smell is linked directly to the limbic system, the oldest part of the brain, which seats emotion and memory. This connection helps fragrance trigger memories buried in the unconscious.\"},{\"question\":\"Why did fragrance become important in Western societies historically?\",\"answer\":\"Throughout the ages, fragrance was used to communicate spirituality, passion, and both masculinity and femininity. It also served practical roles tied to hygiene and social status.\"},{\"question\":\"What factors helped shape the evolution of modern perfume in Europe?\",\"answer\":\"Modern European perfume history is traced to Arab civilization and the distillation of rose water, followed by the spread of Oriental fragrance knowledge to Europe. European developments also include early alcohol-based eau de toilette and shifting attitudes as urban cleanliness improved.\"}]","Fragrance and Perfume in West Europe - Creative Encounters Working Paper 23 | PDF",1790642453,38]