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A fluid mass balance supports rapid flushing and export, while reef-pass exchange shows two-layer baroclinic behavior for small waves but is suppressed during large events, revealing episodic remote-forcing control.",{"@graph":14,"@context":73},[15,34,56],{"@type":16,"itemListElement":17},"BreadcrumbList",[18,23,27,31],{"item":19,"name":20,"@type":21,"position":22},"https://docshare.wps.com","Home","ListItem",1,{"item":24,"name":25,"@type":21,"position":26},"https://docshare.wps.com/document/","Document",2,{"item":28,"name":29,"@type":21,"position":30},"https://docshare.wps.com/document/research-report/","Research & Report",3,{"item":32,"name":10,"@type":21,"position":33},"https://docshare.wps.com/document/episodic-circulation-and-exchange-in-a-wave-driven-coral-reef-and-lagoon-system/142419/",4,{"url":32,"name":10,"@type":35,"image":36,"author":41,"headline":10,"publisher":44,"fileFormat":47,"inLanguage":8,"description":12,"dateModified":48,"datePublished":49,"encodingFormat":47,"isAccessibleForFree":50,"interactionStatistic":51},"DigitalDocument",{"url":37,"@type":38,"width":39,"height":40},"https://docshare.wps.com/thumbnails/episodic-circulation-and-exchange-in-a-wave-driven-coral-reef-and-lagoon-system/142419.png","ImageObject",300,407,{"name":42,"@type":43},"Terk","Person",{"url":19,"name":45,"@type":46},"DocShare","Organization","application/pdf","2026-11-01","2026-08-25",true,{"@type":52,"interactionType":53,"userInteractionCount":55},"InteractionCounter",{"@type":54},"ViewAction",10,{"@type":57,"mainEntity":58},"FAQPage",[59,65,69],{"name":60,"@type":61,"acceptedAnswer":62},"What is the main goal of the study on the coral reef–lagoon system?","Question",{"text":63,"@type":64},"The study examines the role of wave-driven circulation relative to wind and buoyancy forcing, focusing on how flows are driven across the reef, through the lagoon, and out the reef pass.","Answer",{"name":66,"@type":61,"acceptedAnswer":67},"How do tides behave in Paopao Bay during the study period?",{"text":68,"@type":64},"Tides are comparatively weak due to proximity to amphidromic points, and they show an unusual spring–neap cycle where the major lunar tide modulates the major solar tide while the overall tidal phase stays approximately constant.",{"name":70,"@type":61,"acceptedAnswer":71},"What changes occur in reef-pass exchange during small versus large wave events?",{"text":72,"@type":64},"Reef-pass dynamics exhibit two-layer baroclinic exchange flow when waves are small, and this exchange is suppressed during large wave events.","https://schema.org",{"og:url":32,"og:type":75,"og:title":10,"og:site_name":45,"og:description":12},"article",{"robots":77,"canonical":32},"index,follow",{"doc_id":79,"site_id":7},142419,1787680899,{"code":4,"msg":82,"data":83},"success",[84,88,92,96,101,106,111,115,120,123,126],{"id":22,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":85,"show_sort_weight":86,"slug":87},"Story & Novel",90,"story-novel",{"id":26,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":89,"show_sort_weight":90,"slug":91},"Literature",80,"literature",{"id":33,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":93,"show_sort_weight":94,"slug":95},"Exam",70,"exam",{"id":97,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":98,"show_sort_weight":99,"slug":100},5,"Comic",60,"comic",{"id":102,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":103,"show_sort_weight":104,"slug":105},6,"Technology",50,"technology",{"id":107,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":108,"show_sort_weight":109,"slug":110},7,"Healthcare",40,"healthcare",{"id":112,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":29,"show_sort_weight":113,"slug":114},8,30,"research-report",{"id":116,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":117,"show_sort_weight":118,"slug":119},9,"Religion & Spirituality",20,"religion-spirituality",{"id":118,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":121,"show_sort_weight":118,"slug":122},"World Cup","world-cup",{"id":55,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":124,"show_sort_weight":55,"slug":125},"Lifestyle","lifestyle",{"id":127,"doc_module":4,"doc_module_name":25,"category_name":128,"show_sort_weight":97,"slug":129},19,"General","general",{"code":4,"msg":82,"data":131},{"doc_id":79,"user_id":132,"nickname":42,"user_avatar":133,"doc_module":4,"category_id":112,"category_name":29,"doc_title":10,"doc_description":12,"doc_content":134,"file_id":135,"file_url":136,"file_type":137,"file_size":138,"view_count":55,"is_deleted":4,"is_public":22,"is_downloadable":22,"audit_status":22,"page_count":139,"language":140,"language_code":8,"site_id":7,"html_lang":8,"table_of_contents":141,"faqs":142,"seo_title":143,"seo_description":12,"update_tm":80,"read_time":144,"preview_page_count":4},1099525198933,"https://ap-avatar.wpscdn.com/davatar_155a257f0dc6eb9ab79c44ca47cae57d","Limnol. Oceanogr., 53(6), 2008, 2681–2694  \nE 2008, by the American Society of Limnology and Oceanography, Inc.  \nEpisodic circulation and exchange in a wave-driven coral reef and lagoon system  \nJames L. Hench 1  \nEnvironmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory, Stanford University, Stanford, California 94305-4020  \nJames J. Leichter  \nScripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California–San Diego, La Jolla, California 92093-0227  \nStephen G. Monismith  \nEnvironmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory, Stanford University, Stanford, California 94305-4020  \nAbstract  \nWe examined the role of wave-driven circulation relative to wind and buoyancy forcing in a coral reef–lagoon system. Circulation measurements in Paopao Bay, Moorea, French Polynesia, during austral summer show the importance of waves in driving flows over the reef crest, through the lagoon, and out the reef pass. Tides were comparatively weak, due to proximity to amphidromic points, and exhibited an unusual spring–neap cycle where the major lunar tide modulated the major solar tide, and the overall tidal phase stayed approximately constant. Wind had only a secondary effect compared to surface waves. A simple fluid mass balance indicated rapid flushing of the shallow back reef and export through the reef pass, and a reef capture zone width of ,2.3 km. The reef pass circulation dynamics exhibited two-layer baroclinic exchange flow when waves were small, which was suppressed during large wave events. The unusually weak tidal forcing provided an opportunity to more closely investigate wave-driven circulation dynamics. As expected theoretically, there was a wave-driven setup of the free surface across the shallow lagoon, which drove a highly frictional flow, evident by a large drag coefficient CD \u003C 0.1. Diverging from extant theory, the observed setup varied strongly with significant wave height and period. Overall, the circulation and exchange between this coral reef system and the adjacent open ocean were largely determined by episodic remote-forcing events and differed significantly from periodic tidal-exchange mechanisms.  \nThe physical mechanisms driving circulation of coral reef–lagoons systems and lagoon–ocean exchange can influence the transport, dispersal, and retention of larval fish, corals, and other invertebrates (Dight et al. 1990; Black 1993; Cowen et al. 2000), the supply of nutrients (Hatcher 1997; Falter et al. 2004), phytoplankton (Yahel et al. 1998), and zooplankton (Yahel et al. 2005) to the reef, as well as the flow of sediment from the watersheds connected to reef lagoons (Douillet et al. 2001) . These physical mechanisms can span a wide range of scales, ranging from an individual coral colony to the reef, island, and basin scale (Monismith 2007) . The time-dependence of the circulation can also be important. For example, circulation and exchange forced predominantly by tidal fluctuations vary at predictable periodicities, while those controlled by wind-and wave-driven flows can be episodic and subject to  \n1 Corresponding author ([jhench@stanford.edu](jhench@stanford.edu)) . Acknowledgments  \nWe thank Niel Davies, Kate Hanson, Keitapu Maamaatuaiahutapu, Elodie Martinez, Frank Murphy, Mike Murray, and Dale Stokes for help with logistics and in the field. We also thank Michael Gourlay for thoughtful discussions on wave-driven flow. Instrument loans from Hunter Lenihan and Chris Malzone are gratefully acknowledged. Constructive comments from two anonymous reviewers and the editors greatly improved the manuscript. Funding was provided by the National Science Foundation (OCE-0417412, OCE-0452800, and OCE-0622967), and by the Stanford Singapore Partnership. This manuscript is contribution 170 of the Richard B. Gump South Pacific Research Station, Moorea, French Polynesia.  \nseasonal variation in both local and remote forcing. Thus, physical and biological processes dependent on lagoon to open-ocean exchanges may be relatively predictable in some settings ","cbCaiog1f0Y26sSb","https://ap.wps.com/l/cbCaiog1f0Y26sSb","pdf",5679419,14,"English","# Abstract\n## Study context and forcing comparison\n## Field measurements and tidal behavior\n## Mass balance, flushing, and exchange dynamics\n## Wave-driven setup and deviations from theory\n## Implications for transport and ecological processes","[{\"question\":\"What is the main goal of the study on the coral reef–lagoon system?\",\"answer\":\"The study examines the role of wave-driven circulation relative to wind and buoyancy forcing, focusing on how flows are driven across the reef, through the lagoon, and out the reef pass.\"},{\"question\":\"How do tides behave in Paopao Bay during the study period?\",\"answer\":\"Tides are comparatively weak due to proximity to amphidromic points, and they show an unusual spring–neap cycle where the major lunar tide modulates the major solar tide while the overall tidal phase stays approximately constant.\"},{\"question\":\"What changes occur in reef-pass exchange during small versus large wave events?\",\"answer\":\"Reef-pass dynamics exhibit two-layer baroclinic exchange flow when waves are small, and this exchange is suppressed during large wave events.\"}]","Episodic circulation and exchange in a wave-driven coral reef and lagoon system | PDF",35]