[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"doc-detail-141686-en":3,"doc-seo-141686-105":30,"detail-sidebar-cat-0-en-105":95},{"code":4,"msg":5,"data":6},0,"success",{"doc_id":7,"user_id":8,"nickname":9,"user_avatar":10,"doc_module":4,"category_id":11,"category_name":12,"doc_title":13,"doc_description":14,"doc_content":15,"file_id":16,"file_url":17,"file_type":18,"file_size":19,"view_count":11,"is_deleted":4,"is_public":20,"is_downloadable":20,"audit_status":20,"page_count":21,"language":22,"language_code":23,"site_id":24,"html_lang":23,"table_of_contents":25,"faqs":26,"seo_title":27,"seo_description":14,"update_tm":28,"read_time":29},141686,962084928432,"Maya Linwood","https://ap-avatar.wpscdn.com/davatar_155a257f0dc6eb9ab79c44ca47cae57d",2,"Literature","Courtly Love Undressed - Reading Through Clothes in Medieval French Culture","Courtly Love Undressed reassesses courtly love in French High Middle Ages by examining how elaborate garments shape social meaning within love scenarios. The study argues that assumptions about desire, gendered roles, and the negotiability of class status change when luxury textiles and bodily adornments are taken as interpretive lenses. It analyzes lavish silks and elite costume elements—embroidery, jeweled ornament, and court textiles such as bed coverlets and banners—alongside unisex and gendered clothing forms, armor, and gendered representations of skin. It also considers symbolic and material uses of natural elements and studies these themes across lyric and romance literature, didactic works, vernacular sermons, and sumptuary laws.","Courtly Love Undressed: Reading Through Clothes in Medieval French Culture  \nE. Jane Burns  \nUniversity of Pennsylvania Press  \nCourtly Love Undressed  \nTHE MIDDLE AGES SERIES  \nRuth Mazo Karras, Series Editor Edward Peters, Founding Editor  \nA complete list of books in the series is available from the publisher.  \nCourtly Love Undressed Reading Through Clothes in Medieval French Culture  \nE. Jane Burns  \nUniversity of Pennsylvania Press Philadelphia  \nCopyright © 􀀁􀀂􀀂􀀁 University of Pennsylvania Press All rights reserved  \nPrinted in the United States of America on acid-free paper  \n􀀃􀀂 􀀄 􀀅 􀀆 􀀇 􀀈 􀀉 􀀊 􀀁 􀀃  \nPublished by  \nUniversity of Pennsylvania Press Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 􀀃􀀄􀀃􀀂􀀉-􀀉􀀂􀀃􀀃  \nLibrary of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data  \nBurns, E. Jane, 􀀁􀀂􀀃􀀄–  \nCourtly love undressed : reading through clothes in medieval French culture / E. Jane Burns.  \n[p. cm](p. cm).—(The Middle Ages series) Includes bibliographical references and index.  \nISBN 􀀅-􀀄􀀁􀀆􀀆-􀀇􀀈􀀉􀀁-􀀄 (cloth : alk. paper)  \n􀀁. French literature—To 􀀁􀀊􀀅􀀅—History and criticism. 􀀆 . Costume in literature 􀀇. Courtly love in literature. I. Title. II. Series.  \nPQ􀀁􀀊􀀊 .C􀀉 B􀀄􀀉 􀀆􀀅􀀅􀀆  \n􀀄􀀃􀀅 .􀀂′􀀇􀀊􀀊—dc􀀆􀀁 􀀆􀀅􀀅􀀆􀀅􀀆􀀃􀀇􀀂􀀊  \nThis book is dedicated to my grandmother who always wore fancy hats and sparkling jewelry, to my aunt Alice who could transform a scarf into a turban with a few swift strokes, to my mother who taught me to love shoes, and to my aunt Zabelle who sewed elaborate Flamenco costumes on a portable sewing machine and then danced in them. It is also dedicated to my dad who was a natty dresser, to my uncle Marty who wore red suede shoes every Christmas, and to Fred whose preferred outﬁt is still a t-shirt and jeans.  \nI wrote this book in the spirit of all those women who, as girls, played with dolls because of the clothes.  \nThis page intentionally left blank  \nContents  \nIntroduction The Damsel’s Sleeve: Reading Through Clothes in Courtly Love 􀀁  \nPart I Clothing Courtly Bodies 􀀁􀀉  \n􀀃 Fortune’s Gown: Material Extravagance and the Opulence of Love 􀀁􀀂  \nPart II Reconﬁguring Desire: The Poetics of Touch 􀀊􀀉  \n􀀁 Amorous Attire: Dressing Up for Love 􀀊􀀂  \n􀀊 Love’s Stitches Undone: Women’s Work in the chanson de toile 􀀄􀀄  \nPart III Denaturalizing Sex: Women and Men on a Gendered Sartorial Continuum 􀀁􀀁􀀂  \n􀀉 Robes, Armor, and Skin 􀀁􀀆􀀁  \n􀀈 From Woman’s Nature to Nature’s Dress 􀀁􀀃􀀂  \nPart IV Expanding Courtly Space Through Eastern Riches 􀀁􀀉􀀂􀀈 Saracen Silk: Dolls, Idols, and Courtly Ladies 􀀁􀀄􀀁  \n􀀉 Golden Spurs: Love in the Eastern World of Floire et Blancheﬂor 􀀆􀀁􀀁  \nCoda: Marie de Champagne and the Matière of Courtly Love 􀀆􀀇􀀁  \nNotes 􀀆􀀇􀀉  \nBibliography 􀀆􀀂􀀊  \nIndex 􀀇􀀁􀀂  \nAcknowledgments 􀀇􀀆􀀊  \nThis page intentionally left blank  \nIntroduction  \nThe Damsel’s Sleeve:  \nReading Through Clothes  \nin Courtly Love  \nThis book oﬀers a reassessment of courtly love through the lens of the elaborate garments that typify court life in literary accounts of the French High Middle Ages. It argues, in brief, that many of our most basic assumptions about courtly love are called into question when we consider them in relation to the varied functions of sumptuous clothes that provide social deﬁnition for key players in love scenarios. Indeed, our perceptions of courtly desire, of the range of gendered subject positions in love, of thenegotiability of class status through the practice of love and even the symbolic location of the western court itself, begin to shift substantially when we consider them through the lens of the luxury goods and other bodily adornments that so often deﬁne courtliness. We will examine in particular the lavish silks used to fashion elite garments, which are decorated in turn with gold and silk embroidery or with silver, gold, and jeweled ornament, and the equally ornate silks used to make bed coverlets, bed curtains, banners, and tents that festoon the courtly milieu. We will look at the standard unisex outﬁt of chemise, tunic, and mantle displayed on men and women alike, al","cbCaipp3FSvnmms1","https://ap.wps.com/l/cbCaipp3FSvnmms1","pdf",1690098,1,335,"English","en",105,"# Introduction\n## The Damsel’s Sleeve: Reading Through Clothes in Courtly Love\n# Part I Clothing Courtly Bodies\n## Fortune’s Gown: Material Extravagance and the Opulence of Love\n# Part II Reconﬁguring Desire: The Poetics of Touch\n## Amorous Attire: Dressing Up for Love\n## Love’s Stitches Undone: Women’s Work in the chanson de toile\n# Part III Denaturalizing Sex: Women and Men on a Gendered Sartorial Continuum\n## Robes, Armor, and Skin\n## From Woman’s Nature to Nature’s Dress\n# Part IV Expanding Courtly Space Through Eastern Riches\n## Saracen Silk: Dolls, Idols, and Courtly Ladies\n## Golden Spurs: Love in the Eastern World of Floire et Blancheﬂor\n## Coda: Marie de Champagne and the Matière of Courtly Love\n# Notes\n# Bibliography\n# Index\n# Acknowledgments","[{\"question\":\"What central argument does the book make about courtly love?\",\"answer\":\"It argues that many basic assumptions about courtly love are challenged when courtly garments are treated as social instruments with varied functions in love situations.\"},{\"question\":\"Which kinds of clothing and textiles are emphasized?\",\"answer\":\"The book focuses on lavish silks and elite garments, including embroidered and jeweled ornamented textiles, as well as court textiles like bed coverlets, curtains, banners, and tents.\"},{\"question\":\"How does the study connect clothing to gender and sexuality?\",\"answer\":\"It examines unisex outfits alongside highly gendered male armor and female skin, and it frames these differences on a gendered sartorial spectrum to denaturalize sexed roles.\"},{\"question\":\"What sources does the book use to analyze clothing in medieval French culture?\",\"answer\":\"It studies material culture as represented in lyric and romance texts, didactic literature, vernacular sermons, and sumptuary laws.\"}]","Courtly Love Undressed - 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